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Rv Roof Repair Fiberglass Norco

Published Feb 15, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

While you're cleaning, scratch off any type of debris or old roofing system material, but be mindful while you do this as you can conveniently extend a tear, or perhaps punch an opening through the roofing. You need to after that dry the roofing system as best as you can. Note: Rubber motor home roofing systems can be extremely slippery when wet.

After the roofing system is clean, you are going to wish to evaluate the joints for holes, cracks or peeling off, so you can reseal anywhere needed. In addition to that, you'll desire to make a factor of resealing all seams yearly whether they show indications of wear.

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When it involves selecting the finest recreational vehicle roof covering sealant, you'll want to take into consideration whether you are fixing a tear, resealing a joint, or securing the entire roof. The kind of roofing system is also important to remember, as recreational vehicle roof coverings can be made from either EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and TPO (Thermal Polyolefin) and you require the item you make use of to be compatible with your roofing kind.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant is a good option for reviewing old roof seals. It can be made use of for place securing or to reseal every seam on the motor home roof covering. Simply clean the area well and use with a caulk gun. The stuff will certainly level itself out, so don't stress over that component.

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Similar to the EPDM system detailed above, this layer product will certainly cover your TPO roofing and aid it last one more 10 years. Prior To EPDM and TPO, metal was the material of selection for RV roofings.

The previously mentioned EternaBond is still king when it involves repairing small damages on a steel roofing system. It likewise works well for securing seams. Motor home metal roofings do need to be absolutely resealed periodically. House roofing coverings will seal a steel roofing system just great, yet the very best item by far, for metal roofs, is Dicor Metal RV Roof Covering Layer.

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See to it to reseal whenever required and make a point of resealing all of the joints once every twelve month approximately. Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer functions well for this work. If your fiberglass roofing system requires to be covered, Dicor Fiberglass Roof Covering Finish is a good pick. Initially, you'll need to eliminate the current roof covering.

Do this in little pieces all along the roof, reducing openings in the rubber roof covering for any feature that will go back right into the roofing. Change your roof covering's followers, skylights, and A/c unit. Seal each joint with the lap sealer we stated previously. You'll likewise desire to use lap sealer to the sides of the roof covering.

My Motor home roof that needs to be changed! If you're like me and have more time than cash, after that perhaps your finest alternative is to purchase an old Recreational vehicle and repair it up.

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I get it. I purchased my motor home over a year earlier and really did not have the guts to begin tackling this task up until today. I'm right here to tell you, if I can do it, you can do it. Can I really do it? Remain tuned and locate out! I bought this 1993 Jamboree for $5000.

The catch? Water damage! I've never ever worked with a motor home prior to and I need to admit, I'm afraid. I have actually done a whole lot of house renovation and I'm still frightened. That's because this is all brand-new to me and I have no idea what to expect. With any luck if you're thinking about doing this yourself, following along on my recreational vehicle roof covering substitute job will certainly offer you the guts to dive in! The devices I utilized today.

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I purchased a 12 x 26 SuperMax Canopy by ShelterLogic (over $450 on Amazon yet I got mine from North Tool for around $340!) and raised the legs with timber extensions to make the cover high enough that I might depend on the roof covering and stroll beneath it. That seemed to be my most inexpensive alternative.

I figured I would rather have it semi-portable so I selected the cover, plus this permits me to change the height backwards and forwards when I need to. Naturally the most affordable choice of all would certainly be to simply toss a great tarpaulin over the top of your recreational vehicle for rainy days and just job on bright days! Initially I elevated the legs with 1 1/2 PVC pipe that fit inside the legs and after that I affixed a hose pipe clamp around the PVC pipe to stand up the canopy legs.

This is still a little drooping. I most likely ought to have forked out for some stiff steel pipe from the beginning.

An old patch job on the RV rubber roofing. As you can see, this roofing system has had a great deal of problems over the years.

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I ordered an energy blade and started slicing. The very first point I saw is that there were 2 layers. Under is the original EPDM rubber roof covering layer. I know it's EPDM rubber and not TPO rubber because of the black support. (TPO roof covering is white on both sides.) In addition to my EPDM roofing is a slim recreational vehicle roofing covering that was used later.

I simply left the roof covering stuck to the EPDM roof and drew them up with each other. Beginning to peel off roofing finishing.

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All rubber roofing gotten rid of from camper. There was a glue under the lower layer of rubber that was still pretty well stuck in several locations, yet with an excellent bit of force it peeled off up cleanly.

Now I can see all the damaged plywood roof covering outdoor decking below. I have to advise you, the old adhesive was still sticky, and a discomfort to walk on.

If you believe you'll be conserving the roof decking plywood (not changing it), then you could conserve on your own some cleanup problem by eliminating the components initially and afterwards peeling off up the rubber! Detail of water damage on camper roofing system. More water damaged locations on motor home roof decking. There was absolutely nothing truly dreadful that made me seem like I was going to fail, yet most definitely a great deal of damages and I was getting the feeling I would be replacing a whole lot of the roofing decking plywood.

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I chose the most basic one first, an air vent cap from a cooking area sink plumbing vent pipeline. Beginning to scuff caulk and sealant. I utilized a rigid scraper with a chisel-like blade and just started spying and damaging and scuffing and hacking. There is no various other means around this, you simply have to start excavating up until you expose the screw heads.

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Loosening the screws in air vent cap. The screws on this air vent cap were hex-head metal screws so I utilized a tiny outlet driver to eliminate them.

I found an old wasp nest inside the air vent cover. This is a sight I'll possibly have to obtain utilized to, locating the remains of pet habitation high and low. I invest a terrible great deal of my time creating great wildlife environment in my backyard so I do not obtain angered when an animal picks to establish up home in my motor home.

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Thankfully nobody was home in this old nest so I just tossed it. You ought to attempt not to damage these pieces (like vent covers and caps) as you're scuffing off the old caulk and sealer just in case you require to utilize them once more.

One down, 7 more components to go. Following I chose to tackle the only roof covering air flow follower that my camper has - Rv Roof Repair Fiberglass Norco. My roof vent likewise had a vent cover over it. I began scuffing the crud from those screws. Starting on the roofing vent. Hardware revealed on roofing vent cap, the first nut came off clean.

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The bolts on this RV roof vent cover were nuts on tiny bolts. The 2nd one just began rotating, meaning the screw was not dealt with in place but turning along with the nut. A peek at the equipment holding down the roof vent cover.

I really did not have any great way to hold the screw in location so rather I opted to saw with the screws with a reciprocating saw. Sawing through screws on roofing system vent cover. I made use of a cordless reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade yet it was tricky to get the blade level sufficient to get to the bolts so close to the roof deck.

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Bending the blade a little bit to get to close to the roof covering deck. Cover eliminated from roofing air vent.

The majority of were so old and rusted that they sheared off when I unscrewed after that with a whole lot of force. Loosening the brackets that held the air vent cover in position. Then I scratched extra caulk and roofing sealant off the flange of the roofing vent itself. I quickly discovered there were no extra screws or hardware holding it down so I quit on the scraping and went inside the motor home After scuffing the caulk and sealer from flange of roof air vent, no more screws! Loosening the within cover plate of roofing vent follower in RV washroom.

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A pair sheared off with a whole lot of force, however two would not budge. I had to pierce out the screw heads. I selected a drill bit close to the size of the shaft of the screws that I had actually currently drawn out and began drilling. Picking a drill bit for drilling out a screw head.

Shatterproof glass recommended. So I pierced out the heads, one popped off and the various other I was getting frustrated with and gave it a yank before it was pierced through. Rather than standing out off the screw head, the plastic simply disappeared around the warm screw head. Whoops. Hope I do not need to reuse this cover.

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All corner braces removed, ready to take out. Once the brackets were out I went back up top to pry out the the roofing system vent. Then I scraped up all the remaining cruds and rubber roof. Taking off the old roof vent. There are two cables going to the roof covering air vent (a black hot cord and a white neutral cable) that you'll need to clip to get rid of the old vent.

These are the wires connecting the roofing system venting follower. I clipped them simply above the blue splice joints. Roof air vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the wire and getting rid of the vent, I tidied up any staying goop and obtained my initial great check out the roofing structure. It's steel! 1 1/2 inches thick.

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Some Motor home roofings are mounted with wood, others have metal framing. I scratched off some corrosion and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.

Oops. Perhaps I ought to have placed a tarpaulin down. My final goal of the day was to get the refrigerator air vent cover off. I observed RV sealer blobs at four points on the cover so assumed there should be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.

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Subjecting the screws in the fridge air vent cap. Peeling old RV roof covering layer in addition to refrigerator vent cap I also noticed that there was a layer of motor home roof finish over the air vent cap. These layers are painted on with a brush so clearly whoever did this layer simply blobbed in on top of whatever.

Taking off the cover of the fridge roof covering air vent. Once the cap is off it's more of the very same. Cutting away a lot more rubber and removing motor home roof covering sealant and old caulk. Get comfy due to the fact that this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scuffing lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.

Some screws will be as well rusted and need pliers to get rid of. Tearing off the refrigerator roofing air vent nevertheless screws are gotten rid of. (and the devices used.) Virtually every screw remained in good adequate condition to remove with an outlet chauffeur, but a couple were also corroded and required to be turned out with vice grip pliers.

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OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I peeled off the staying rubber roof covering from under the flange and after that scuffed off the old putty beneath. Scuffing off the old putty from the flange of the fridge roofing system air vent.

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