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Rv Camper Ac Repair East Irvine

Published Jun 01, 25
11 min read

Rv Camper Repair Near Me East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall and twisted a bit - Rv Camper Ac Repair East Irvine. I'm presuming the repair service will involve changing that entire length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major repair work, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride before we understood the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out since it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio reasonable? Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey metal - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like advice as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps also obtain us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead find a fast and reliable solution. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roof trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. However in order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the motor home awning as well.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof decking).

Here's a detail of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step till the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the. Removing the placing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may have to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty rapidly.

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just know it's coming! When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was secured under it. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply glides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When the two set screws were eliminated I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The following point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the edge molding should be gotten rid of.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a rigid 6 wide putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the same way, and curved it sideways just enough so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which means I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim pieces all the means down. However we'll obtain to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. The side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this point) and then I could tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the damaged bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to draw up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I could see the steel framework beneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the pieces with each other. I do not understand just how specifically they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roofing was shedding stamina and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those corner trim items all the method down nevertheless. Yet we'll get to that later. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive at this point) and afterwards I might tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Rv Camper Ac Repair East Irvine. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts in all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand just how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off just before the very first seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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