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Camper Repair Orange County

Published Jun 07, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Repair Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything awry, however withdrawed both awning simply to be safe. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rain gutter had actually been drawn away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has pulled away from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Repair Orange County. I'm assuming the repair will entail replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, major repairs, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out because it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The back brace assembly is great, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and entirely appeared on top, so that the leading assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio practical? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray metal - it's the grey bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like guidance as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also get us via the summer - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather locate a fast and efficient option. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing system decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to establish on the ground. First I drew these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off first before the final actions of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this action up until the awning was on the ground however I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just pull back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, after that you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's simply like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Draw out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You might have to reduce completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went pretty swiftly.

As soon as the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When both established screws were removed I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can eliminate the old roof outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so again I just pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. The roof outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change have to be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding must be gotten rid of.

After that I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I might swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened up the other edge trim in the same means, and bent it sidewards just sufficient so that I might lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which means I'll end removing those edge trim pieces all the method down. But we'll get to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting but adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof was shedding stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those edge trim items all the method down. We'll get to that later. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue at this point) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Camper Repair Orange County. Now I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are signed up with together at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roof was shedding strength and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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