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Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Placentia

Published Jun 04, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall and twisted a bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Placentia. I'm assuming the repair work will involve changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is fine. The back brace setting up is great, however the front one is fractured at the base and entirely broken through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Placentia).

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The RV is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even get us with the summer season - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a quick and reliable option. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my RV Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roof trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to get rid of the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing system outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also see just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off initially before the final steps of this article (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step up until the awning got on the ground but I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning. Once the placing braces are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is basically simply like a regular piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's much like getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. Simply tug it out!

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply understand it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were removed I might glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The following thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

After that I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scrape to a rigid 6 wide putty knife. This item chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. Then I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it sidewards just sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Very same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in any way holding down the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up a few of the damaged bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to pull up cleanly intact without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framework below. Yet after that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces together. I don't know just how exactly they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly realized the roof was shedding toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which means I'll finish removing those corner trim items completely down nevertheless. Yet we'll reach that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet glue at this point) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Placentia. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing began to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not know exactly how precisely they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roof covering was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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