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Camper Roof Repair Santa Ana

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Replacement Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything awry, however withdrawed both awning simply to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the rainfall gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall and twisted a bit - Camper Roof Repair Santa Ana. I'm presuming the repair service will require changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repair work, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure prior to we realized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The rear brace setting up is great, but the front one is cracked at the base and completely broken through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Even the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Roof Repair Santa Ana).

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The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also obtain us through the summer - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather locate a fast and reliable service. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roof covering trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof covering decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll also see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs ahead off first prior to the last steps of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing system decking).

Here's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step until the awning was on the ground however I saw this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the mounting brace of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Simply yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) DIRECTS! As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was secured under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were removed I can slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding need to be removed.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the other edge trim in the exact same way, and bent it sideways just sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which implies I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim pieces all the way down. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just standing out via the staples. The edge of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Very same deal once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scraped up a few of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to pull up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I can see the steel framework below. Yet after that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they handled to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly realized the roof covering was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's simply popping with the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Same offer once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive at this point) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Roof Repair Santa Ana. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scuffed up several of the damaged little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't know just how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roof was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the initial joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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