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Santa Ana Camper Service

Published Jun 05, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything awry, yet pulled back both awning just to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall gutter had actually been drawn away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Santa Ana Camper Service. I'm presuming the repair work will require replacing that entire size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant fixings, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we recognized the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and totally appeared at the top, to ensure that the leading assistance arm no much longer fastens to the camper. We remain in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Santa Ana Camper Service).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is damaged it needs to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was all new back then. If nothing else, we would certainly like advice regarding just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even get us with the summertime - without needing to place in an all new awning! We're in an extremely serious bind since we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly rather discover a quick and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Improvement Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. But in order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to get rid of the recreational vehicle awning also.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing system decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. I pulled these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise notice exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the final steps of this blog post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action till the awning got on the ground but I saw this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, just draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Here's a take a look at the circular channel at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, after that you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that just pull it out.

You might have to cut completion with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite promptly.

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can eliminate the old roofing outdoor decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the corner molding should be gotten rid of.

Then I can swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I changed from a scraper to a tight 6 broad putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that factor I switched from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. After that I loosened up the other corner trim in the very same way, and bent it sidewards just sufficient to ensure that I might raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those edge trim pieces completely down after all. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. Finally the side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side. Very same offer again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I could yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scratched up several of the busted bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framework under. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the pieces with each other. I do not understand exactly how exactly they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roofing was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much quieting but adhesive at this moment) and after that I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Santa Ana Camper Service. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing started to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I do not know exactly how precisely they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roof covering was shedding strength and stiffness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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