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Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Foothill Ranch

Published Jun 03, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything amiss, but pulled back both awning just to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Foothill Ranch. I'm assuming the repair service will entail changing that whole length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride before we recognized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is great. The rear bracket setting up is great, but the front one is split at the bottom and entirely broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Foothill Ranch).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly even obtain us with the summer - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead find a quick and efficient option. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to set on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the final steps of this post (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I saw this set screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, just pull back on the bracket. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be removed. Here's a check out the circular network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof like me, then you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's just like eliminating the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Pull out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You might have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

When the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground little by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just moves right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were removed I could slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The following thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. To raise that, the edge molding must be gotten rid of.

Then I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I switched over from a scraper to a tight 6 large putty blade. This piece damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the very same way, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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It's simply standing out with the staples. The side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this point) and then I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. I began carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts in all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing began to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not understand how exactly they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Foothill Ranch, CA

I promptly understood the roof covering was losing strength and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's simply standing out through the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge. Very same bargain once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however glue at this point) and then I might yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Foothill Ranch. Now I can draw out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing started to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the pieces together. I do not understand just how specifically they managed to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roofing system was losing toughness and rigidity as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off simply before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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