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Walnut Camper Repair Shop

Published Jun 05, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Walnut, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has actually pulled away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Walnut Camper Repair Shop. I'm thinking the repair service will involve replacing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair services, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip prior to we understood the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is fine. The back brace setting up is fine, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and completely appeared on top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper. We are in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Even the real assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray metal - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just intending to ensure we're not being taken in out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it has to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, but we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was all new during that time. If nothing else, we would like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also get us through the summer season - without needing to put in an all new awning! We remain in a very major bind due to the fact that we have actually a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather discover a fast and reliable option. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my RV Renovation Series!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. Yet in order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to remove the RV awning too.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof covering decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll also notice just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off first prior to the last actions of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this action until the awning was on the ground but I saw this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. Right here's a consider the circular channel at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's simply like eliminating the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 established screws were eliminated I might move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can remove the old roof outdoor decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rustic staples stifling. I tore them out as best I could. The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To raise that, the corner molding have to be removed.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 broad putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. Then I changed from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. After that I loosened up the various other corner trim in the exact same means, and bent it sideways simply enough to ensure that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces all the method down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out with the staples. The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Very same offer once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling however adhesive at this point) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scuffed up several of the broken bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to bring up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framework underneath. But after that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't know how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's simply standing out through the staples. Finally the side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Exact same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive now) and after that I can yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Walnut Camper Repair Shop. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to pull up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that joins the assemble. I do not recognize just how specifically they managed to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roofing system was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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